Alterations That Are Worth Paying For

A small alteration can turn an almost-right piece into a favorite. Knowing which changes are easy keeps the cost sensible.

Remember this

1. Hemming, taking in a waist and shortening straps are usually simple and affordable.
2. Shoulders and making a garment bigger are hard, and sometimes impossible.
3. Bring the shoes and underwear you’ll wear with the garment to the fitting.
4. Ask for a price before work starts.

Ready-to-wear clothes are cut for an average body. Alterations adjust them to yours, and some are much easier than others.

Usually simple and worth it

• Hemming trousers, skirts and sleeves. The most common alteration, and it makes a big difference.
• Taking in a waist. A gap at the back of trousers or a skirt is often an easy fix.
• Shortening straps. Quick work on dresses and tops.
• Tapering legs or sleeves. Narrowing a wide leg or sleeve along the seam.
• Replacing buttons and fixing seams. Small repairs that keep clothes in use.

Harder, or best avoided

• Shoulders. Changing the shoulder of a jacket or coat is complex and expensive. Buy for the shoulders and alter the rest.
• Making things bigger. Only possible if there’s spare fabric in the seams.
• Hems with details. Raw edges, lace, embroidery or a curved hem make shortening trickier.
• Heavily patterned fabric. Matching the pattern across a seam takes skill.

Try this

When shopping, check the shoulders, the bust and the hip first: those are the hardest to change. Length and waist can usually be adjusted.

Getting good results

1. Wear what you’ll wear with it, including the shoes for hemming and the right bra for tops and dresses.
2. Let the tailor pin it on you, standing naturally.
3. Ask for the price and timing before agreeing.
4. Try it on before you leave, and point out anything that isn’t right.

Alterations work best on well-made clothes with decent seam allowances. Our guide to spotting well-made clothes shows what to look for, and measuring yourself helps you buy closer to the right fit in the first place.

You asked

Q: Is it worth altering cheap clothes?

A: Sometimes. A simple hem on inexpensive trousers you’ll wear often can be worth it. A complicated alteration on a low-cost piece usually isn’t.

Q: Can a dress be let out?

A: Only if there’s enough fabric in the seam allowances, which many ready-to-wear clothes don’t have. Ask the tailor to check the inside seams.

Q: How do I find a good tailor?

A: Ask friends, look for reviews that mention the type of work you need, and start with a simple job to see the quality.